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Thursday, December 31, 2020

Everything Falls Apart

      Our time in Utah continued with more trail time, on foot this time as Amber joined Shannon and myself in going up to Horsetail Falls. This trail starts in Alpine and goes up the mountain to a large waterfall. It was 2.2 miles of steady climbing, mainly in the shade of the woods. There are several creek crossings near the top. I love rock hopping across a creek, but Shannon is still not too fond of them. Last year, she got wet multiple times on challenging creek crossings in Shenadoah National Park. Today, it was my turn. I slipped on a slanted rock and fell into the water on the last creek crossing. It was a step I knew I shouldn't have taken. The odds of me getting traction on the rock I lept to were slim to none, yet I went for it anyway. I ended up on my side in the cold water. My Camelbak wedged between two rocks and pinned me down for a few seconds. Shannon and Amber didn't know if to laugh or go into rescue mode. I finally got free and was able to get up. I was wet and cold, but unhurt other than a few scrapes to my right hip. I had our nice camera around my chest and it fell into the water. We lost the lens cap and busted the zoom mechanism inside the lens. The camera body is waterproof so it held up, but the lens was shot.

Dry Creek is not so dry.

Shannon on the first of several water crossings.

Horsetail Falls in the distance. Pretty great view.

Another opening in the trees gave us a sneak peek of the falls.


Amber trying to keep the feet dry.

    It was a shame to lose the camera as the waterfall was quite spectacular. It was much larger than we expected, falling 75 feet just in the main portion. The snow melt and recent rain made for high volume of water as well. It was literally shooting off the mountain. The waterfall spreads out in places, sort of looking like a horse's tail so I can see how it got its name. You can climb down toward the bottom of it and that view is even more impressive. Horsetail Falls is definitely the best waterfall we have seen in the the Salt Lake area. Check it out if you get a chance.

As always with hikes on the west side of the Wasatch, the view into the Salt lake Valley is great.

Horsetail Falls


View from lower down the falls.

That's me near the water. This puts the size in perspective a bit more.


Video: Horsetail Falls


     Rain was back shortly after our hike, so no bike time that day. Or the next day. Or the next. It was storm after storm, especially in the mountains. Saturday's forecast was so bad on the western side of the valley that the Rush Valley Road Race got cancelled. Thunderstorms were expected with wind gusts of over 60 mph forecasted through the day. Not a great recipe for bike racing in an open desert valley. The weather really spoiled my ride plans, as has become the norm on our trips the last few years. I wanted some big miles this week before departing for Dairyland. I had only ridden about half as mush as I hoped for.

At least the rain gave us a big rainbow one day


    Saturday morning was stormy, but the storms stayed away from the eastern side of the Salt Lake Valley. Shannon wanted to do one more hike before she flew out on Sunday. I decided to skip the bike so we could do something together. We had hoped to hike up Mt. Timpanogos on this trip, but I was the only one really prepared for a hike that tough. Shannon and Amber did not feel ready for it after our hikes earlier in the week. We also heard from some people who had been up Timpanogos recently that the snow line was still low and you couldn't reach the top without ice climbing gear. I didn't want to go part way up, so that hike will have to wait for another trip.

     Shannon and I still wanted to summit one of the mountains. We decided on Grandeur Peak, which is right next to where I-80 comes out of the mountains into the valley on the east side of Salt Lake City. It's the peak north of Mt. Olympus, which we climbed back in 2017.  The two peaks are separated by Millcreek Canyon, which is where our trail began. Grandeur is smaller than Olympus, but still offers a great view as the peak seems to sit closer to the valley.

A small cascade early in the hike up Grandeur Peak



Steep climbing means views like this come quickly

     The climb up Grandeur was a tough one. It was a steep asphalt beginning before transitioning to dirt. The first half was more in the shade than sun. The second half is all in the sun and becomes very rocky as you come out of the trees. There's a ridge at 2.5 miles where you can see to the north and west. You get a slight break from the climb there, then it goes up steeply again for the final 0.8 miles to the peak. You can't really see the peak until you are right at the bottom of it. The ridge keeps it concealed as you climb. Shannon was pretty tired by the time we got to the ridge. The sun was hot today for the first time on this trip and it wore on both of us. I had to convince Shannon to keep going once we hit the final up section. Another hiker in front of us was having even more trouble than Shannon, yet still moving forward. I think that motivated Shannon enough to keep going. We made it to the top, along with the other struggling hiker. The view was great We sat up there a while to fully take it in and give our feet and legs a rest. Then we started the 3.4 miles back down to the van. Our feet were pretty shot after a descent that long and steep. Both of us were getting blisters. Steep grades hurt more than just your muscles.

Halfway up the climb the trail is more rocky and exposed to the sun.

A view of downtown Salt Lake City from the ridge about a mile from the peak.



Looking north you can see Big Mountain, Little Dell Reservoir and Mountain Dell Reservoir

At the top looking east up Millcreek Canyon

Looking over the Salt Lake Valley from Grandeur Peak. That's the Great Salt Lake in the distance.

To the south is the mighty Mt. Olympus peak

Butterfly on the peak

     The next day we left Gma's together. It was a shorter trip than normal, but still great to see the family. I dropped Shannon off at the airport, then headed west. I was going to stop for a ride in Park City, then go through Wyoming to Curt Gowdy State Park for a few days. I had until Friday to get to Wisconsin. Not having my Mom split costs with me was going to make the budget tight, but I was still planning on going. I was just feeling too good on the bike right now to miss it if it was finanacially possible to get there. Curt Gowdy was looking a bit questionable though as they have changed many of their campsites over to reservable. It used to be about 50/50 on reservable sites versus first-come sites, but now most of them are reservable, and they were booked for this week. I wasn't sure if I could even get a spot.

     I got to Park City in the middle of the day, parking the van about 3/4 of the way up Empire Pass above Deer Valley. I was planning for a mountain bike ride, but that did not happen. I got the bike ready and headed into the woods only to run into a wall of snow less than half a mile down the trail. Every ski run was still covered in 6+ feet of snow. I walked across three snow-covered runs before I realized this wasn't going to get better. I turned back and instead opted for a road ride.

Crossing the ski slopes on the trail. They all looked like this.

Not a lot of snow remained up here, but it was in all the wrong places to be able to mountain bike.


     The road was closed to the summit of Empire Pass and beyond to Guardsman Pass, as well as all the way down Pine Mountain Rd to Midway. I wasn't sure if that meant the road was covered in snow or not, but I went on up anyway. In Tennessee, bikes can't go on closed roads, but in Utah, the closure is usually only for cars. You see cyclists, hikers and rollerskiers using the traffic-free roads as safe places to train. The top of Empire was covered with snow, but the road was clear. The snow piles along the side of the road were 10 feet high in places. I headed down to Midway first to enjoy the closed roads as well as fresh pavement. This descent down Pine Mountain Rd used to be very rough, yet the steepness made for a fast ride. The pavement not only made it smooth, but now it's even faster. I was a bit cautious on the way down as I was afraid of running up on a hiker or some debris in the road. As I neared the bottom, I felt a bump in my front wheel. The final section to the gate is very steep and I had to get on the brakes hard. The bump quickly got worse, to the point that I could barely keep pressure on the brakes. I thought I wasn't going to be able to stop before the gate, but I got it slowed enough to stop right against the blockade. I got off to look at my wheel. The rim was broken and caving in. As I was examining it and trying to decide what to do, my rear tire went flat. There I was stuck at the bottom of the mountain about eight miles from the car with nobody to call to come get me. I had to try to ride that wheel back up the mountain.

Topping Empire Pass

Looking southeast beyond Heber and Midway

Snow at the top of Empire Pass


     I changed the rear tube and got back on my way. The front wheel was holding up well to everything, but braking. Thankfully, I was going up a mountain for the next 6+ miles. That would get me close enough to walk to the van. I just kept my fingers crossed that the carbon rim didn't split enough to send a chard of carbon into my tube since I had used my one spare already.

     I rode hard to make as much ground as I could before something else happened. The wheel held up fine to the top, but now I was above the van. I had to get back down. I tried to ease into the downhill from Empire, but it's hard to hold back the bike on a grade that will easily get you beyond 55 mph. Once I got rolling, I could barely keep the bike under control. The rim was so rough that it was tearing through my brake pads, literally pulling off chunks with every round. I was able to make it to the van just as the pads ran out of rubber. The rim was totally destroyed, barely even holding its shape. I knew it had a lot of wear on the braking surface, but I did not expect that amount of descending to finish off the carbon lamination. 

Looking down on Park City just before I started limping down to the van


     It took me much longer to complete the ride than expected. I was torn as to what to do. It would be super late when I got to Curt Gowdy and I still wasn't guaranteed to get a campsite. Shannon was still ont he plane so I called Gma to see if I could stay with her for another day or two. She was excited for me to come back as Amber was now gone on a mission trip. Gma was glad to be getting company even if it was just for another day. I had a bed for the night, but now I had another issue. I brought two wheelsets for the trip so I could have spare wheels in the pit at Dairyland. I had wheels to ride, but I would not have pit wheels. That seemed like a long way to go to chance being out of a race because of a flat. I also now would need to buy a new wheelset. I had planned to replace my deep dish set at the end of this year as they are very worn, but I had planned to keep the set that just broke. Now I was looking at two new sets to buy at the end of the year. It became clear that Dairyland was no longer financially possible. It just wasn't meant to be this year.


Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Empty Seat

      Just three days after the SERC in Chattanooga, we were on the road for Utah. We left late on a Wednesday night and were nearly exhausted upon departure. I had spent the beginning of the week cleaning up from the whirlwind weekend of dirt track racing and mountain biking in Chattanooga while also trying to pack for more than three weeks on the road. This trip was to be a long one for me. We were going out to Utah for a week, then I was going to head up to Wisconsin for Tour of America's Dairyland. I finally had enough money to do one of the big races on my list. The plan was for my Mom to join us on the trip as she wanted to visit everyone in Utah again and then would be my support at Dairyland. Her going and splitting costs with me was the only reason I could afford a trip this long. Shannon was going to fly home as she only had one week of vacation time she could use right now. I was doing all this planning while working and getting the farm ready to be unattended for three weeks. Shannon would be there to take care of it after the first week, but I wanted to leave her as little work as possible.

     I had to make a new set-up for the van as we would have more stuff with us than our typical trip. We also had three bikes as my Mom was planning to bring her mountain bike. I stayed up super late on Tuesday night, probably irritating the neighbors as I sawed and drilled on a new bike mounting system.

     While I was gone on Wednesday, my Mom came by the house and looked at the van. She thought there was no room for her and backed out of the trip last minute. She didn't tell me her reason until we were on the road. I was annoyed as I had done so much to make sure there was plenty of room. We did everything to accomodate her. If she had only told me I could have explained, but she didn't speak up in time. We had to repack the van again before we left. I knew now I could not afford to stay in hotels or AirBNBs at Dairyland and would instead have to sleep in the van. I had to make room for me to be able to sleep comfortably back there for more than a week fo crit racing.

     I was worn out just after we passed St. Louis. Shannon took over there and got us west of Kansas City before she had to stop for a nap. We are all about driving through the night, but we were just too worn out to do it safely this time. We had planned to take I-80 out through Wyoming and stop by Curt Gowdy State Park, but there was major flooding along the Missouri River that had shut down I-29 in Iowa and Missouri, plus parts of Hwy 2 in Nebraska. So we stayed on I-70 into Kansas.

     By the time we awoke from our nap, it was daylight. I was ready for a ride so we hit up Wilson State Park, a place we camped at last year on our Kansas adventures. The Switchgrass Trail was a really fun ride. I liked the flow and the old post rocks that were sticking up from the ground in places. This stop was not near as fun as last year though. The flooding was bad in this area too. The lake was beyond its banks in places, covering the trail completely in several areas. 

On the Switchgrass Trail in Kansas

End of the trail here. Wilson Lake was out of its banks.

The trail was grown up in a lot of places, but fortunately some of the overgrowth was wildflowers.


Another watery dead end.


     What wasn't underwater was muddy and overgrown. I rode the little bit of decent trail I could find and then we left. The stop wasn't a total waste though as I managed to get us a post rock that was being discarded where a new fence was being constructed. Getting it to the van was quite the story, but Shannon will have to tell that story to you from the witness point of view. All I will say is that they are bigger and heavier than they look.

Box turtle at Wilson State Park.

Buzzards ahead.

No-go on this trail.


The yuccas were in bloom.





A pair of post rocks along part of the Switchgrass Trail. These were part of a fence long ago.

     We hit Denver in the afternoon and traffic was a nightmare. We couldn't get through town and over the pass, so we had to detour up I-25 to Ft. Collins, then cut across to Laramie, WY. I-25 creeped at less than 20 mph for more than 30 miles. I was about to poke my eyes out by the time we reached Ft. Collins. Then things got better as Ft. Collins was a nice city to drive through. Hwy 287 follows and is full of all kinds of sights as you cross into Wyoming. The larger mountains become small rock piles and cliffs that change color around every corner. We ended up passing within 30 miles of Curt Gowdy. Probably should have just gone this way in the first place and rode ol' Curtis, but it is what it is. We pushed on across Wyoming and pulled into Gma's house about midnight. Worn out again, but at least this time we were in a bed instead of reclined in a bucket seat.

     My first ride to hit up in Utah was over to Butterfield Canyon. It was a rainy morning and a bit chilly. This was quite a bit different from my trip up last year when it was blazing hot and my head was sunburned from hiking to Lake Blanche. The rain was snow in the higher elevations so the mountains to the east and west were capped with a fresh white blanket. The ride was only 43 miles, but it was a quality 43, going up Rose Canyon twice and Butterfield Canyon once.

Dark clouds ahead with the top of Butterfield Peak covered in snow in the distance.

Looking down from near the top of Butterfield Canyon

Snowy peaks in the Wasatch range off to the east

At the top of Butterfield. Trying out a new look with the bar tape. I liked it, but it was a pain to wrap with two different colors and keep things even.

Got cold and a little wet to get up here, but totally worth it.


     When I got back from Butterfield, I found out there was a road race coming up the following weekend in nearby Rush Valley. Of course I wanted to do it, so Shannon and I went over to check out the course the following day. Rush Valley is located in the valley to the west of the Salt Lake Valley. We drove around the south side of the Oquirrh Mountains to get into the valley. The road course did loops within the valley, followed by a finish climb up Johnson Pass. The valley loop was about 8.5 miles around a big square in the middle of the empty desert. Not much to look at. It was going to be boring to do eight laps on it for the Pro/1/2. It would likely be super windy as there were no trees to stop the wind at all. After we completed lap 8, we would head straight up Johnson Pass for 8.1 miles to the finish. The climbing began as soon as you left the loop. It was more of an annoying false flat for the first mile, then got a little more gradient to it as you left the desert valley and neared the mountain itself. Trees began to appear as you crested this portion at around 2.4 miles. It went back to false flat for another half mile before the real climbing began. It was a pretty steady grade the rest of the way up. Trees appeared and then got bigger as you climbed with the final two miles being almost fully wooded along the side of the road. It was a beautiful climb. If you looked back over your shoulder you could see the snow capped peaks of the Oquirrh Mountains. I really liked the grade, especially in the second half. I was pretty excited about this race.

Cresting the first part of Johnson Pass



Nearing the top of the climb

     After I descended back down to Rush Valley, I hopped in the van and we drove north up the valley toward the town of Grantsville. We went into the Stansbury Mountains that line the western side of the valley for a hike up South Willow Canyon to South Willow Lake. Supposedly, it was 2.8 miles uphill to the lake. The trail began with a steady uphill on doubletrack that was used often by dirt bikes and horses. It was a bit loose in places. The trail crested in a beautiful meadow full of wildflowers, then descended for a quarter mile. The serious climbing began after that brief respite. It started on an old gravel road, then transitioned more to singletrack as the trees began to thin and the boulders became more plentiful. About halfway up the mountain, we began to hear thunder in the distance. We kept climbing and the thunder grew louder. We stopped to check out a mountain stream and thought about turning back. We were 2.5 miles into the climb. The lake had to be close. We didn't want to get so close and not see it so we kept going. The darks clouds seemed to be on the opposite side of the valley anyway.

Looking down on the gravel road into South Willow Canyon from the trail


Mountain meadow full of yellow wildflowers at the top of the first climb with snow-capped peaks in the distance.

Heading up the gravel road section of the trail




Video: Stream along the trail


     The climb kept getting steeper and now was entirely rock. It was fallen debris from glaciers that rolled through here long ago. We finally could see a crest that looked like where a lake would be. The snow line was just below the crest. We had to scambled across the slippery snow. It was firm enough to walk on, but staying on the trail became a challenge. We were able to reach the crest, but no lake. The snow was melted in this spot, then came back as we neared another crest that seemed like another great spot for a lake. We were now beyond 2.8 miles. The snow here was not firm and our legs kept busting through. We were literally crawling at this point. We had on shorts so our legs were quickly feeling like icicles. We lost the trail again, but I managed to get to the top of the crest. Again, no lake. There was another crest visible in the distance, but it was all snow to get there. It was going to be slow-going with frozen skin on our legs. Shannon was done with the frozen legs. I turned back to help her up the crest and saw the black clouds were now on our side of the valley. The thunder was sounding near. We decided to turn back at 3.1 miles as we didn't even know where the trail was anymore. We followed our path back through the snow and rejoined the uncovered trail. Both of us were tired, but we suddenly had energy to pick up the pace as the clouds were beyond ominous. At this elevation, it was probably going to pelt us with sleet. We started jogging on the gravel road portion, then actually ran a bit through the wildflower meadow. We made it back to the car just as the storm hit. Lightning was flashing across the valley ahead of us as we drove out of the canyon.

Further up the mountain as the trees thin.

At the snow line. It was just beyond here that we began to lose the trail and fall through the deeper snow.

On the way back down.

Climbed this rock for a quick view of the storm.


     It seemed like the hike was a fail as we did not reach our destination, but the drive out made it all worthwhile. The timing was perfect to see a pieace of a large rainbow shining across the valley. We also got an excellent view of the storm rolling toward the Great Salt Lake. The storm pelted us with rain as we drove by the lake and around the north side of the Oquirrh Mountains back into the Salt Lake Valley. 

Back down near the parking lot we could see the storm lower down the canyon with a rainbow starting to form in the curtains of rain.

The rainbow wasn't a full arc, but very bright as we exited the canyon.


The shiny spot in the distance is the Great Salt Lake. We stopped here to watch the storm pass the point of the mountains and reach the lake.

Looking back up South Willow Canyon after the storm had passed.


     The following day was full of storms as well. I managed to get in an hour on the road around West Jordan between showers. We also hung out with the animals at the house next door to Gma. They are the ones with the giant tortoise. They also have horses, a sheep and some crazy looking chickens. We tried to feed the sheep some of our green grass, but he wasn't interested.

The tortoise was outside sunning.



     The storms finally rolled out the next day and I was able to go exploring on the mountain bike. Trailforks showed some new trails at Corner Canyon in Draper near the top of the mountain. I have only climbed all the way to the top once and have been wanting to go back up there. It's a long climb just to get to the turn to go to the top, which is where the new trails start. I took a different way up than I had ever gone before. After 35 minutes of climbing, I made the turn to head to the crest of the mountain. I found the new trails, which kept going up before finally giving me a break with some descending down toward Alpine, a little town nestled up against the base of the mountain behind Draper. Some of the new trails looked brand new, not even fully packed down yet. One section had a few roller jumps that gave me some air time. They were perfectly timed because on the final hump I saw a rattlesnake stretched across the trail just as I lifted off the ground. I cleared it and immediately stopped. I have never really seen a rattlesnake up close. I turned around to find it was gone. I knew it was still nearby somewhere. I shuffled my feet slowly and worked my way back to where I saw it. The weeds along the side of the trail were tall and hid it easily. I tried to keep my bike between me and the snake just in case I got too close before I spotted it. Even with my intense concentration I did not spot it until it rattled at me. It was literally only three or four feet ahead of me before it sounded the rattle. I almost walked right up on it. The snake didn't want to fight though and quickly moved away while continuing to rattle. I got a quick picture and then it was gone.

View of the Salt Lake Valley part way up the climb out of Corner Canyon


Rattlesnake!

Saw quite a few lizards today.

     I crossed a few roads and continued on newer trails into Alpine. The trails eventually went off my map. I went out for a few more minutes, then backtracked. I stopped by Three Falls on the way back, then ran into a a big bullsnake stretched across the trail. It was about six feet long. This dude was a bit lower down the mountain from where the rattlesnake was spotted. The bullsnake was enjoying the sun after the past few days were so wet and cold. It did want to fight and I had a hard time getting by. It attacked my bike, then finally moved enough I could slide by without getting bitten. The end of the ride was great, finishing with a long descent down the canyon passing by Ghost Falls and twisting through fields of waving red-tinted grasses. Over three hours of awesome trails!

On the newer trails


Spotted some free range cattle over by Alpine



Three Falls


Bull Snake


Back at the top of Three Falls on the way back


Third snake of the day. This Garter was hanging in a small tree along the bridge by Ghost Falls.

Ghost Falls